The following photos bring the conclusion of the story of our recent trip down the Denison and Gordon Rivers with Grant Dixon.
Limestone cliffs on the Gordon River. Hasselblad 500CM, Ektar 100, Nov 2024.
To return means to arrive back to one’s starting point. The peculiar thing with returning after a big trip is that while the place we are returning to may appear similar, or even identical, our self may be quite different. A great trip is measured by the changes in our character, knowledge, abilities, attitudes. A fruitful trip is one that changes the way we look at the world. A great trip helps us cast our illusions of the world aside, and help us embrace the reality of what really is. In this way, the hidden becomes visible.
Our camp by the Gordon River. Photo Credit: Grant Dixon, Nov 2024.
Our trip was a bit of an epic. We lost Grant’s paddle early on, I ripped a massive gash in the floor of my raft, Grant lost the foot pillow of his raft when it got stuck in a strainer, the rats chewed through the inflation hose for our seats, and we ripped a couple of eyelets off the bow of my raft. In some way I was grateful that all these mishaps happened on my first long trip, and in the presence of someone like Grant, who knew exactly how to remedy each of these problems as they arose. I now feel much better prepared for my future remote packrafting missions.
I also bumped my shin on a rock after visiting the ‘Dombrovskis Balcony’ at the Gordon Splits; the ledge where the Peter Dombrovskis took one of his most famous photos, the one that ended up on the cover of ‘Wild Rivers’. The Dombrovskis Balcony gives the best view of the First Split, looking straight down the middle. (See previous week’s Melting Billy post if you missed my photograph!).
The way onto the ledge wasn’t immediately obvious, but after some poking around I discovered the most viable means of approach without any ropes. I was pretty stoked about finding the way there at the time. But I did slip and hit my shin painfully on the way back to the campsite. Eventually the pain subsided and I thought no more of it till the next day. But I had a niggling sense that perhaps the local spirits weren’t entirely happy with me having gone there and taken that particular photograph.
I discovered the bump on my shin the next day when it had turned to an egg sized lump after walking through the tangled forest for about six hours. It looked alarming, but Grant assured me that he had a very similar lump on his leg on a trip in NZ many years ago and that eventually it subsided; therefore my leg must be okay as well. I wish I had taken a photo of it as it looked pretty ridiculous. My leg still bore weight without too much pain so I figured it must be okay.
Snag Point, Gordon River. Hasselblad 500CM, Ektar 100, Nov 2024.
Upon our return to Hobart, the lump on my shin stubbornly persisted, but without any pain. I went to see a doctor who said as long as it bears weight, there is nothing to be concerned about, it’s simply a bone bruise and takes a long time to heal. I also went to see my osteopath, who usually puts me back together after I hurt myself. He said I need to remember to ask permission before I go to these remote places. Being respectful to the place and the spirits that reside there lessens the likelihood of having any mishaps he reckoned. I liked his theory and made a mental note to do as he said in the future.
So if I learnt anything from this particular trip, it is this: ask for safe passage before putting on the river in my raft. When permission is asked for, it is usually granted. If it’s assumed, it may spell trouble. Showing respect to the place we are visiting is as important as adequate preparation if we wish to keep ourself safe.
Two months later, the lump on my leg is starting to subside, but it is still clearly visible. One day it will heal, but the lesson it has taught me will remain.
-A.S. 18/1/25, Lenah Valley
Yours truly, paddling near Butler Island. This is close to the spot where about 50 protesters formed a line in their rubber duckies in 1983 to stop the barge carrying the bulldozer headed toward Warner’s Landing. The barge plowed straight through the line and continued on its way. Luckily, no one was hurt at the time. There was a bit of land cleared and a jetty built at Warner’s Landing, but thankfully, the Gordon below Franklin Dam was never built. Photo Credit: Grant Dixon, Nov 2024.